05/19/2012

Bee’s in the McDowell Mountains

Hey Guys and Gals

As you visit the wilds of Arizona, I want you to keep an eye out for one of the many inhabitants
of the desert that can strike quick and fast, without warning. Bees.

Aggressive and powerful, swarms of bee’s are frequently encountered in and around the Phoenix
metro. As you get out into the wilds surrounding the city, the wildflowers dotting the hillsides bring bees
by the thousands. This coupled with the structure of the rock in the desert gives them numerous holes,
cracks and schisms to start a hive.

Remember to examine as much as the route from the ground up as you can, looking for any increase in
activity at the skyline or around the vicinity of the route or bolt line. Very often, if there is any moisture
on or in the cracks in the rock, they will congregate as well.

If attacked, try to remain calm. Bee’s are highly reactive and will swarm quickly and with much aggression.

Try not to flail about too wildly, even if being stung since this cause further attack. If on belay, try to get a safe place as quickly as possible, either by being lowered or anchoring in.

Cover your eyes, eyes, nose and mouth by wrapping something around your head.They will attempt to sting closest to areas that have your scent vapors. Your core can take more stings than your surface vitals – eyes, lips, ect.
Get quickly out of the area as fast as possible.

They will disengage usually after you are out of the area.

The McDowell Mountain and CamelBack Mountainareas routinely get exposure to the bee populations because of they’re popularity.

 

CLimb Safe, CLimb Strong – CLimbPHX.com

Isolation Canyon Guidebook Out Now

The highly anticipated Isolation Guidebook is finally out – after months of effort by
Phoenix local,  Manuel Rangel. With 89 pages, it’s Chock full of beta and tips from one of the best trad and mixed sport route areas in Central Arizona – this is a must have for Trad Climbing enthusiasts! Complete with pictures, descriptions
and tips to assist you find the route in your grade.

Visit http://isolationcanyonguidebook.com/  to contact the author or stop by Tufa Gear Shops locally to purchase directly.

 

McDowell Mountains Construction

McDowell Mountain Climbing with CLimbPHX

Climbing Changes in Latitude on Sven Slab, McDowell Mountains

The City of Scottsdale is beginning construction of the permanent Tom’s Thumb Trailhead. The permanent Tom’s Thumb Trail Head will be located southeast of the intersection of 128th Street and the Preserve boundary, and will be accessed via 128th Street. From now on the preferred access from the intersection of Pima and Happy Valley Road will be to take Happy Valley east to where it turns north and becomes 118th street. Turn east on Ranch Gate Road then south on 128th street. This route has been improved to the boundary of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve. The old access route through Troon will be gated and closed to public traffic prior to completion of the new Trailhead.

You will see increasing construction activity through out the winter climbing season. During the construction process, continue southbound on 128th Street to the T-intersection with El Paraiso and turn left/east and follow signage to the current Temporary parking areas near Sven Slab and underneath Morrell’s Wall. The City is willing to allow temporary access to the trail systems in the area as long as the hiker/biker/climber/horse rider activity does not interfere with construction. Please respect this effort by the City to attempt to avoid closure during the entire construction process, which will continue through early summer of 2012. Inevitably there could be some short term closures due to construction needs, so please follow any official signage. We will also attempt to get the word out when we know sufficient information.

The Preserve is owned by the City of Scottsdale and its primary purpose is to keep the natural habitat and geology in its native state. All usage is governed by the City of Scottsdale code and will be enforced. Once in the Preserve, please remember to follow all of the City of Scottsdale rules and regulations for the Preserve as indicated on the signage. These rules include no camping or overnight stays, opening at sunrise and closing at sunset, etc. Stay on the designated main trails, and only access crags on the official climber trails, most of which are marked by signage along the Tom’s Thumb Trail. Under no circumstances use the old access to Tom’s Thumb that enters near the house SE of 128th and El Paraiso. (This signage was obtained by a grant the AMC received from the Access Fund and was installed by AMC and local climbers.)

Please remember that the City has been very good to climbers and is allowing us to continue to climb on all of the historic crags (albeit with new access). Your behavior can ensure that climbing can continue. Please respect the partnership we have formed with the City.

If you have any questions, please direct them to Erik Filsinger, Climber Liaison to City Staff, at smorefil@aol.com or Scott Hamilton, Preserve Planner, at shamilton@scottsdaleaz.gov.

Thank you.

New Canyoneering Book by Todd Miller

If you haven’t gotten a chance to see Todd’s new book on Canyoneering in the Grand Canyon -
Check it out!

The Grand Canyon is considered one of the seven wonders of the natural world. It possesses one of the most visually powerful landscapes on the planet, with expansive vistas, airy heights, plunging depths, towering pinnacles, sheer-walled buttes, spires, mesas, temples, and the vast, multihued, labyrinthine topography. But within the deepest corners of the main Canyon itself, hidden away from the casual observer, are seldom-visited, smaller tributary canyons that exhibit stunning beauty, intimacy and opportunity for adventure.

This comprehensive guide includes:

Descriptions of over 100 canyons rated by technical and physical difficulty

Detailed first-hand descriptions supplemented by maps, photos, and GPS coordinates

Essential equipment information

Locations of water sources

Natural History facts and low-impact canyoneering techniques

The trips described in this book will guide the reader on some of the most beautiful and remote backcountry adventures to be found within the Grand Canyon.

Florine and Honnold: 45 Seconds From Nose Record

Hans Florine and Alex Honnold raced up the Nose of El Capitan in 2 hours 37 minutes 30 seconds on Tuesday, the third-fastetst time in history. Their time was just 45 seconds slower than the record for Yosemite Valley’s most iconic route, set in 2010 by Sean Leary and Dean Potter.

This was Florine and Honnold’s third speedy trip up the route this fall, and each time they’ve made huge time gains, from 4:37 to 3:16 to 2:37. The two hope to try again later this week; however, the forecast calls for rain or snow in the Valley on Thursday night and Friday. “We are at the mercy of the weather and my recovery time,” Florine said. “It’ll be frustrating if we have to wait until 2012.”

Florine has been setting speed records on the Nose and then taking them back from rival parties for more than 20 years. Before Leary and Potter’s run, Florine held the record with Yuji Hirayama at 2:37:05, set in 2008. At age 47, Florine began his climbing career two years before his partner, Honnold, was born.

Asked what prevented them from breaking the record this time, Florine had a precise answer: “I lost 46 seconds on a screw-up in the Great Roof, where I did a long lower-out and lost control of the rope [leading up to Honnold].” Florine had to tie off to the anchor and then “via ferrata” out along the roof to grab the errant cord.

Florine added that he was “out of breath and panting through the Stove Leg [cracks]. Coming from [my home at] 600 feet to 4,200 feet in the Valley, I was feeling it. If we get another attempt, I should be a little more cardio fit, but not a lot.

“But then,” he added, “I only need 45 seconds.”

Date of ascent: November 1, 2011

Source courtesy: Hans Florine – Climbing.com